Koomilya is a 30-acre vineyard that sits at the end of Amery Road on the very edge of the Blewitt Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale. The vineyards, the first of which were planted over 100 years ago, are surrounded by native forest, which is an important factor in moderating the climate. Home to an ancient soil type (dark grey, thinly laminated slaty siltstone flecked with ironstone) and a unique micro climate, this property leaves an unmistakable geological and viticultural mark. The JC Block Shiraz, named for the previous owner, Jill Cant, faces southeast at 360 feet above sea level. The 2021 vintage was mostly joyous but not without its challenges. Good winter rain led to strong growth with good cover in the mid row and under vine well into summer. Nervous expectation after two low yielding years muted conversations about the potential for a good year right up until harvest. No disease pressure, good canopies and plentiful bunches lead to a long ripening season. The resulting wine, in comparison with the more powerful ‘DC’ Block Shiraz, shows poise, elegance, and finesse.

As always, Stephen Pannell’s goal in the cellar is to showcase a style that harks back to a tradition of what Australian wine looked like in the 1960s without all the artifice of winemaking. As such, the winemaking is incredibly straightforward. The grapes were hand harvested in mid-February from a single block of 49-year-old Shiraz vines. The fruit, which spent 12 days on skins with the hard pressings removed, was then transferred to stainless steel until early May. The wine was then moved to 3rd-use, 2300L French oak vats for malolactic fermentation and maturation. After 18 months in oak, the wine was bottled without fining or filtering and with just a small sulfur addition.