Barossa Grenache usually arrives in a heavy coat: fleshy, sun-soaked, a little boozy, all jam and swagger. This arrives in a linen shirt. It is pale, transparent and nearly weightless in the glass. The aromatics are perfumed and lifted, with fresh raspberry and cherry, strawberry cordial, rose petal and pomegranate. Then comes the part that gives the wine its character: white pepper, clove, black tea, graphite and a faint breath of coal dust and campfire. Sandalwood and a woody, savory spice backbone hold the fruit in place. The palate is bright, crunchy and a little edgy, with sapid, attractively sour red berry and a lean, mineral, spicy cut where the Barossa norm is plush. It keeps lift, weight and balance in proportion, and the sappy tannins add a subtle astringency that makes it a natural at the table.