Pale straw. Like a wine still figuring out who it wants to be, which is half the fun. Give it a swirl and the bouquet tightens up, taut and clean: mandarin peel, lemon thyme, orange blossom, with nectarine and star fruit drifting in behind. Then the fun stuff arrives with a hint of of melted wax and a lightly saline edge. The palate is medium-bodied but doesn’t lounge around — quince and dried honey on the entry, then that acidity snaps to attention, conspicuous, almost argumentative, yet somehow the whole thing stays in balance rather than tipping into austerity. Firm, fresh, faintly saline, with a thread of stem ginger running through a long, lightly spiced finish. Natural, deliberate, whatever you want to call it: it’s seriously good, and it knows exactly what it is even if it’s still finding new ways to say it.