SOUTH AFRICA IS… NOT WHAT I THOUGHT IT WAS

Where Are We Now?

“So, where is the wine industry in 2024?”

“It stands at a crossroads. South Africa found its own voice thanks to the Swartland Revolution and ‘new wave’ producers… while some wine regions covet exclusivity and luxury branding, South Africa represents something inclusive, authentic, self-effacing and, a virtue oft-forgotten, fun.”

“Can it crack America? South Africa is still niche.”

“It is making inroads, certainly amongst sommeliers and younger consumers, though a vast swathe of cognoscenti still looks down their noses, stuck with outdated definitions of ‘fine wine’. That seems to be changing. Two or three distributors are coalescing serious South African portfolios in the United States. One positive trend is that premium brands are driving growth. The value of low-cost bulk wines has declined, a trend in all export markets. It explains why hectares under vine have fallen from just under 100,000 in 2013 to 87,000 in 2023.”

Duncan Savage with assistant winemaker Banele Vakele. Vakele was born in the Khayelitsha township and became a CWG protégé, which led to working with Savage on condition that they part ways after five years for Vakele to establish Tembela Wines.

PRODUCER HIGHLIGHTS

VAN LOGGERENBERG

“The best examples in this category are unequivocally world-class: Boschkloof, Porseleinberg, Eben Sadie, Donovan Rall, Lismore, Lukas Van Loggerenberg or the Mullineux’s… “

“On this trip, Cinsault really came into its own, whether it is adopting what you might call a more ‘transparent’ style like Mick Craven’s Cinsault or Van Loggerenberg’s ‘Geronimo’ cuvée.”

• 2023 Graft Syrah – 96 points
• 2023 High Hopes Red Blend – 95 points
• 2023 Lotter Cinsault – 94 points
• 2023 Breton Cabernet Franc – 93 points
• 2023 Kamaraderie Chenin Blanc – 92 points
• 2023 Geronimo Cinsault – 91 points
• 2023 Trust Your Gut Chenin Blanc – 90 points

BOSCHKLOOF

“As we surveyed his vines from the rear balcony, he explained how there were few vineyards in this area when they began planting in the 1990s. Now, it is one of the most sought-after areas. His Epilogue remains one of the finest expressions of Syrah in Stellenbosch with deft use of whole bunches. Just a shame so little is produced, for example, a mere 400-odd bottles of the Epilogue. Readers should also seek out his Sons of Sugarland range.”

• 2023 Kottabos Grenache-Syrah  –  92 points
• 2022 Epilogue Syrah  –  95 points

CRAVEN

“These are a model for what you might call ‘transparent’ wines that to quote Craven, keep things as simple as possible. No cultured yeasts, enzymes, fining agents, concrete vats or larger used oak barrels with just a tiny amount of SO2 popped in at the end. These are well worth seeking out.”

• 2023 Chenin Blanc  –  92 points, “Superb”
• 2023 Pinot Gris  –  90 points
• 2023 Cinsaut  –  91 points

LOURENS FAMILY WINES

• 2023 ‘Lindi Carien’  –  92 points
• 2023 ‘Lua Ilse’ Grenache  –  93 points
• 2023 ‘Howard John’  –  92 points, “This is very nuanced and stylish – another great wine from winemaker Franco Lourens.”

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